Tuesday, October 13, 2009

littlebits Guide to Paris


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Last week I shared some of my favorite spots in London, and now it's time to let you in on some great hidden (and not-so-hidden) gems in the City of Light. This was not my first time to Paris (and it certainly will not be the last), so I got to re-visit some old favorites as well as discover a whole crop of new ones.

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1. Fromagerie Véron - Located on the Rue Mouffetard (home of the popular Mouffetard Market), this shop is the perfect place to pick up a couple of cheeses for a picnic in one of the nearby parks. The best part of this fromagerie, though, is the owner, who was sweet and adorable and patient with my attempts at speaking French.

2. Cimitière Père Lachaise - The resting place of the likes of Colette, Chopin, Edith Piaf (and, most famously, Jim Morrison), this well-manicured cemetery on the eastern edge of the city is a peaceful setting for a leisurely, contemplative stroll on a cloudy day.

3. Le Comptoir des Archives - A nice spot in the Marais for a tasty, affordable weekend lunch and a bit of people-watching. I had the duck confit with fried potatoes and green salad, which at €11 was practically a bargain.

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4. Hôtel Biron Garden - For just €1 (it costs an additional €5 to enter the museum itself), you can stroll through the beautiful garden at the Rodin Museum. It is full of sculpture, including bronze casts of some of Rodin's most famous works (The Thinker, Gates of Hell, The Burghers of Calais).

5. La Grande Épicerie - If you are a foodie, plan on spending no less than two hours in this epicurean paradise. From chocolate to caviar, truffles to champagne and everything in between, this place literally has it all. I left with a kilo of hand-gathered grey sea salt, a bag of herbes de Provence, some Valrhona cocoa powder, and a small jar of intoxicatingly-scented truffle salt.

6. L'As du Fallafel - There are no less than five (and quite possibly more) places to get falafel on the Rue des Rosiers in the Old Jewish Quarter, but L'As du Fallafel is widely considered the best of the bunch (even Lenny Kravitz is a fan!). For €5 you get a fresh, soft pita stuffed to the brim with crunchy falafel, pickled cabbage, cucumber, tomatoes, tahini, and a garlicky tzatziki sauce. So good.

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7. Arnaud Delmontel - Okay, I have to admit that I didn't actually eat anything from this bakery in Montmartre, but only because I already had my heart set on a cone of ice cream from the shop down the street (see number 10 below). I did scope out the goods, however, and they all looked absolutely amazing. Think whole-grain baguettes, jewel-like tarts, and the always popular French macarons.

8. Berko - I already let you in on the best cupcakes in Paris (even if they were the only ones I tried), but I couldn't leave Berko off of this list. I am still dreaming about the creamy coffee-flavored filling of the tiramisu cupcake...yum. Waiting until the last day of my trip to visit this place is NOT a mistake I will make twice.

9. Pont des Arts - Right around sunset, this pedestrian bridge in the heart of Paris turns into a meeting place for friends and lovers. Bring a blanket, a bottle of wine, and someone you love and watch the sun go down behind the Eiffel Tower. Ahhh...perfection.

And a few more for good measure...

10. Caramella - A great little ice cream shop on the Rue des Martyrs in Montmartre. The hours are a bit unpredictable (we happened to walk by around 2:00 when it was supposed to open, but it didn't actually open until about 2:45), but the light and delicately-flavored (think speculoos, coffee, and pear with cinnamon) ice cream is worth waiting around for.

11. Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves - Paris is lousy with flea markets, but the one at Porte de Vanves is generally considered to be the best. There is plenty to see here, from books to art to household items, but don't expect bargain prices. I picked up a few old black and white photographs, a rubber stamp from the 60s, and a couple of chipped café au lait bowls (the ones in better shape were way out of my price range).

12. Luxembourg Gardens - This popular park certainly isn't a hidden gem, but I never get tired of it. The flowers, the fountains, the sculpture, the palace...it's all gorgeous. I cannot imagine visiting Paris without spending at least one entire day here, just eating, drinking, reading, and taking in the beautiful surroundings for hours. This is Paris at its most beguiling.

(All photos by me.)

2 comments:

  1. Um....I want to eat nothing but that falafel and those cupcakes for the rest of my life. Perhaps a move to Paris is in order!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Let's do it, sister. Though we might have to mix it up once in a while with some cheese and ice cream...

    ReplyDelete

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